Albania - Day 1 & 2 (mountain roads)

Saturday 20th April

Birds sing everywhere in Albania. Last night I even needed ear plugs to sleep under the moon song of some little tweeter in a bush next to my tent!

By cycle touring standards there has been a lot good so far - pretty scenery with quiet roads, friendly and unpushy people (filling up my water bottles, sometimes offering a sort of expresso coffee or Rakia shot thrown in with the visit), sunshine and calm air, no bugs and mostly passive dogs. Importantly, sweet and savory baking, mainly filo based, seems to be available cheaply in most towns.

A 1000m climb over 10km up Mt Tomorri yesterday again highlighted how once off tarmac the Albanian roads can be tough with steep gradients making some sections unridable. Pack donkeys in the area are often the first warning signs!

Nevertheless getting off road has been really rewarding, with some excellent views and the roads almost to myself. Other than the occasional herd of belled goats or sheep attended by crook equipped Shepards (I found out why later), or a beat up old Mercedes tooting as it rattles past.

Albanian houses seem to be built with the aspiration for three floors. It is usual to see a one or two story house with a flat roof sprouting steel rods skywards ready for the next level.

The flat coastal area from Vlore to Fier is full of new houses, roads, generically clad industrial buildings and, pleasantly, investment in pedestrian areas and roadside beautification. Travelling inland the towns become noticeably poorer, although much more charming to look at. Another feature of Albanian houses is making use of the garden or flat roof to erect frames to grow what appear to be vines, giving the house a rustic appearance.

So far I’ve felt so comfortable here I would happily trade the tent for a bivy bag. English has been spoken sporadically, and the people seem proud of their region if less so the county or politicians.

The early morning sun has almost dried my tent so it’s time to pack away. Because of the slow going yesterday, I doubt I’ll make it to Lake Ohrid as originally planned. Instead I'll head to Sandra and up the coast to Vlore, although am a little concerned about how busy this road may get.

Track Day 1 - Vlore to Berat
https://www.strava.com/activities/2316111889 
Track Day 2 - Berat to Corovoda
https://www.strava.com/activities/2316142031

- The back road to Berat provided beautiful olive grove and vineyard views, along with very steep tracks - 

- Photo on the move past the famous Berat old town, I didn't make a culture stop - 

- Riding out of Berat along a valley of vineyards - 

- I cooked some couscous and veggies for dinner, camped in what I think was an olive tree grove at the head of the valley - 

- Riding up the lower slops of Mt Tomorri, accompanied by donging bells of the grazing herds -

- The pretty green slops gave way to bare rock quarries as I ascended - 

- View from a high mountain pass, the snow line was as low as 1500m - 

- Entering the mountain village of Gjerbes on the far side of Mt Tomorri -

- Despite there being no open restaurants, I was relived to find someone happy to cook an excellent lunch for a few Euro, including filling my bar bag with leftovers and some homemade cheese for dinner (Note: I have not taken up smoking) -

- Coming around the mountain, the road improved, providing a sweeping decent past quarries and gullies down to Corovoda - 

- Back in the green belt on the way down, my fingers were getting tired from all the braking! -

- Sort of ice cream made by two stumpy old ladies using a machine which looked like it was from the 1950s -

- Followed by a gentle sunset decent through a beautiful valley above a river gorge -

- I enjoyed a refreshing river dip and leftover lunch before bed, keeping a stick handy by the entrance of the tent in case of unwelcome nightime visitors -