Following the May 2023 success of the NNNNNN in Norway with Pauline and Seth, the purpose of this outing was to test the waters for ski/bike trips in the vastly different road and snow conditions of the French Pyrenees.
Experience dictates more unusual and ambitious adventures often take shape in the cozy surroundings of a pub over a few beers, and Pyrenean ski velo has been no exception.
Yesterday’s one day outing was a first attempt of this ski/bike concept – to test the gear setup and understand what is possible...
Arriving into Tarascon-sur-Ariège at 9am it was satisfying to park at the side of the road just before the traffic jam. Carloads of skiers off to the Ax & Andorra resorts, who, like us, were hoping to make the most of the remaining snow following a large dump earlier in the week.
Despite little practice, mounting skis on the bikes proved to be simple and fast – a promising sign for future outings of this type. Powered by a mixture of excitement and Tarascon boulangerie coffee, we made fast progress along the valley towards Val-de-Sosm until a right hand turn to the 7-8% gradients of the climb to Port de Lers slowed us right down.
The climb was uneventful other than one puncture on my bike. On arriving at the snow blocking the road 2.5km from the col, we decided to continue with the bikes, opening up the possibility to turn this outing into a loop via Col de Port, as opposed to a simple out and back.
This required pushing the bikes loaded with skis uphill in knee deep, wet snow – very much type two fun! Arriving at Port de Lers we had a quick lunch, time check and transition to ski mode, then set off leaving our bikes, extra equipment and wet cycling shoes hidden near the col.
Starting skiing at 13h in the afternoon felt unusual, and despite good coverage, the snow was heavy, sticky and humid. I was quite pleased with my ski tracing through the lumpy and rocky forested approach, while Guido set a speedy pace tracing up the higher, open slopes.
We approached our target summit, Pic de Gérentos, from the West, enjoying clear 180 degree views of the surrounding mountains. The final 100m to the summit were made without skis, as all the snow had been blown away from the crest. Our decent by ski was fun enough considering the mushy snow. Never have my legs felt so tired after such a short ski – without doubt due to the preceding 1000m cycle climb and, more importantly, 2.5km uphill hike-a-bike+skis.
Having decided to go for the loop, we pushed our bikes down the Western side of the col, finding it far more efficient to transition between pushing the bikes while wearing our skis with skins on, and slowly riding the less snowy patches holding skis in one hand and (just) controlling the bike with the other. Enroute, several “Bonjours” were exchanged with rather baffled looking snowshoers.
Arriving at Étang De Lers, meant another transition, from ski/push bike mode to bike/carry ski mode. Rolling down the smooth tarmac of the snow free road felt like a dream after the heavy resistance of the white stuff during the initial 3km of our decent.
The ride to Massat consisted of lots of beautiful views, and very little pedalling. Guido tried hanging one of his equipment sacks somewhat comically at the very end of his skis which were attached to his bike – but this created a shaking mode so we stopped once to readjust the load.
A mini apéro of beers, crisps and olives from the bio shop in Massat set us up for the final leg of the trip – a 600m climb over Col de Port, which was accompanied by tweeting birds and the setting sun.
Cresting the col just as dusk was falling, we descended the final 800m of altitude fast enough that the dropping temperatures of nightfall were compensated for by the warmer, cosier air of the valley below.
We arrived back at the car at 19h30, and motored back to Toulouse for some well-earned authentic Italian pizza.
Already looking forward to ski/cabin/velo, next time!
Main learnings from yesterday's ski/bike…
- Ski attachment to bike – no major issues.
- Hike-a-bike over snow is easier with skis & skins on, and is preferably avoided wherever possible!
- Carrying skis & luggage – a rear rack and panniers make carrying luggage simpler, more efficient and comfortable. The extra luggage space is likely essential if doing an overnight trip.
Route - ski part in yellow highlight
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